If you're looking to get into stunting, a grom 12 bar is basically the first thing you need to bolt onto that bike before you even think about clutching up a wheelie. It's the ultimate insurance policy for your tail section, and honestly, it's what turns a stock mini-moto into a proper stunt machine. Without one, you're just one poorly timed whiskey throttle away from snapping your rear plastics or, worse, mangling your subframe.
The Honda Grom is arguably the most popular bike in the world for learning how to wheelie. It's small, it's light, and it's relatively cheap to fix when you inevitably drop it. But even though it's a "mini" bike, the damage from a loop can be surprisingly expensive if you haven't reinforced the back end. That's where the 12 bar comes in—named because it protects the bike when it's pointed straight up at the 12 o'clock position.
Why You Actually Need One
You might see some guys riding around without any protection, just relying on their skills to keep the bike balanced. That's fine for them, but for the rest of us who aren't pro-level riders yet, a grom 12 bar is a literal lifesaver. When you're learning balance points, you're going to overcook it. It's not a matter of if, but when. When the bike goes back too far, the bar hits the pavement first, stopping the bike from flipping completely over and smashing your lights or seat.
Beyond just saving your wallet, these bars give you a lot of confidence. It's much easier to commit to a high wheelie when you know there's a steel bracket back there designed to take the hit. It changes the psychology of the ride. Instead of being terrified of looping, you start looking forward to "scraping"—that satisfying sound of metal meeting asphalt.
Different Styles of Bars
Not all bars are created equal, and depending on what you want to do with your Grom, you might prefer one style over another. Most of what you'll find on the market falls into a few specific categories.
The Round Bar
A round bar is exactly what it sounds like—a curved piece of tubing that follows the contour of the rear of the bike. These are super popular because they look a bit cleaner and more integrated with the bike's lines. If you're into "circling" or doing technical transitions where the bike isn't just going straight, a round bar can be nice because it doesn't have sharp corners to catch on the ground if the bike leans over while you're at 12 o'clock.
The Flat Bar
Flat bars (or scrape bars) are the go-to for people who want to throw sparks. They usually have a flat plate across the back, often with a replaceable "puck" or "scrape plate." These are designed for stability. When you hit the 12 o'clock mark on a flat bar, the bike feels a bit more locked in. It's harder to side-swipe or tip over because you have a wider surface area touching the ground.
Subcages vs. Standalone 12 Bars
This is a big one. Some grom 12 bar setups are just a bracket that bolts to the back. Others are part of a full subcage. A subcage replaces the passenger peg brackets and usually offers more structural rigidity. If you're serious about stunting, getting a 12 bar that integrates with a subcage is the way to go. It strengthens the entire rear half of the bike, which is notoriously a weak point on the stock Grom frame.
What to Look For When Buying
Don't just buy the cheapest thing you see on a random auction site. Your 12 bar is a structural component. If it's made of thin, crappy mystery metal, it's just going to bend the first time you drop the bike, and it might even take your frame down with it.
Look for bars made from high-quality steel (like chromoly) or heavy-duty aluminum. Steel is generally preferred because it can take a beating, be bent back if it gets slightly tweaked, and it's easy to weld if you ever need a repair. Aluminum is lighter, which is cool for a Grom, but it tends to crack rather than bend under extreme stress.
Also, check the mounting points. A good grom 12 bar should use multiple points of contact on the frame. If all the pressure is being put on two small bolts, you're asking for trouble. The best designs distribute the impact across the subframe to prevent cracking the bike's actual skeleton.
The Installation Process
Most people can handle the install in their garage with some basic hand tools. You'll usually have to strip off the rear plastics and the seat to get to the mounting holes. One thing to keep in mind is that many aftermarket bars require you to trim your plastics slightly. If you're precious about your OEM bodywork, this might hurt a little, but it's a necessary evil for the sake of protection.
If you're installing a bar that integrates with the subcage, you'll also be messing with the passenger peg area. Make sure you use blue Loctite on your bolts. The Grom vibrates a ton—it's a single-cylinder engine, after all—and things have a habit of shaking loose over time. You definitely don't want your 12 bar falling off while you're halfway through a midday lot session.
Scraping and Titanium Pucks
Once you get comfortable hitting the bar, you're going to want to make it look cool. This is where titanium blocks come in. You can bolt a small block of titanium to the scrape plate of your grom 12 bar. When titanium hits asphalt at speed, it creates a massive shower of white sparks. It doesn't really serve a functional purpose other than looking absolutely sick in photos and videos, but hey, that's half the fun of stunting anyway.
Just be careful where you do this. Scraping is loud and the sparks can be a fire hazard if you're riding near dry grass. Keep it to the lots or industrial areas where you aren't going to cause a scene or get the cops called on you immediately.
Maintaining Your Setup
Believe it or not, you actually have to maintain these things. Every few rides, take a second to look at the welds and the mounting bolts. If you've been dropping the bike a lot, the bar might start to develop "play." Tighten everything back up.
Also, if you have a steel bar, keep an eye on the paint. Once you start scraping, you're going to grind off the powder coat or paint, leaving raw steel exposed. If you live somewhere humid or near the ocean, that raw steel will start to rust overnight. A quick spray of black krylon every now and then will keep it looking decent and prevent the rust from eating into the metal.
Final Thoughts on the Grom Life
At the end of the day, a grom 12 bar is about more than just protection—it's about freedom. It gives you the freedom to fail, which is the only way you actually get better at riding. When you aren't worried about ruining your bike, you push yourself harder. You try that slower wheelie, you attempt that foot-to-bar transition, and you finally find that balance point you've been chasing.
Whether you're going for a minimalist round bar or a beefy subcage with titanium pucks, just make sure you get something solid. The Grom community is huge, and there are plenty of riders out there who have tested these parts to the absolute limit. Do a little research, pick a bar that fits your style, and get out there and start practicing. Just remember to wear your gear—because while the bar protects the bike, it doesn't do much for your skin when you're sliding across the pavement.